Tiempo  8 horas 53 minutos

Coordenadas 1479

Fecha de subida 2 de agosto de 2016

Fecha de realización julio 2016

  • Valoración

     
  • Información

     
  • Fácil de seguir

     
  • Entorno

     
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4.335 m
2.958 m
0
1,6
3,2
6,39 km

Vista 2830 veces, descargada 69 veces

cerca de Gornyy Sadovod, Almaty Oblysy (Kazakhstan)

Komsomol (Nursultan) Peak, 4376 m, in the Tian Shan range, is just 25 km off the city of Almaty, in Kazakhstan.

The normal ascent route to Komsomol Peak combines a glacier section with a final rock climbing section. This combination makes it a very complete and enjoyable trail.

Three ski lifts will take you from Medeu ice stadium and car park (1600 m) to Shymbulak ski resort (2300 m) and then to Talgar Pass (3200 m).

There are several possible camp sites in the area, those at 2960 m, 3200 m and 3500 m have been marked as waypoints.

The glacier is climbed all the way up from the point where you leave the moraine, at approximately 3500 m (see waypoint), until the Komsomol Pass, at 4040 m. We didn´t see any major crack in the glacier, but there were, both sides of it, clear signs of avalanches (see pictures). Therefore it´s advisable to keep away from its steep sides.

The final rocky section starts at approximately 4150 m and ends at the Komsomol summit. It is fully equipped with brand new bolts and with some steel steps. Following the route is quite straight forward, except for a couple of times when you will need to look for the next bolt, or at a point where there is an apparent choice between two lines of bolts/steps. Consider that in this part of the trail the accuracy of the GPS device is very limited, as many satellites are covered by the wall.

Both the glacier and the rocky sections are not specially complicated or difficult, but it may be quite tricky to navigate them in bad weather conditions, and late afternoon thunderstorms are usual.

Grade according to Russian difficulty scale : 2a
cima

Abay Peak 4010 m

campamento

Base camp 2960 m

Waypoint

Bogdanovich glacier 3500 m

cima

Karlytau Peak 4100 m

Collado de montaña

Komsomol Pass 4040 m

cima

Komsomol Peak 4376 m

fuente

Lagoon - camp site and fountain 3200 m

parquing

Medeu - car park 1600 m

campamento

Moraine - camp site 3500 m

cima

Phizkulturnik Peak 4068 m

Collado de montaña

Pioneer Pass 3870 m

cima

Shkolnik Peak 3690 m

cima

Shymbulak Peak

Avituallamiento

Shymbulak ski resort 2300 m

Waypoint

Ski lift upper end 3200 m

Waypoint

Start of rock climbing section 4160 m

Collado de montaña

Talgar Pass 3163 m

4 comentarios

  • Foto de vizuete.pedro

    vizuete.pedro 16-ago-2016

    He realizado esta ruta  ver detalle

    good alpine route!

  • Foto de alfredodeandres

    alfredodeandres 17-ago-2016

    Thanks for the rating!

  • Foto de vizuete.pedro

    vizuete.pedro 18-ago-2016

    Y como es que te viniste a subirlo? Yo vivo en almaty, y me conozco muy bien la zona

  • Foto de alfredodeandres

    alfredodeandres 20-ago-2016

    Pues qué suerte tienes de vivir tan cerca de tantos cuatromiles!

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